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Although musicologists have not found an
eighteenth-century version of “Yankee Doodle”
with the immortal line “He stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni,” that jibe may well have originated about the time of the Macaroni
Club, established in London in the 1760s by men
of polymorphous sexuality.

John Thorn is the author
and editor of many
books, including New
York 400, forthcoming
in September 2009. He
lives in Saugerties, New
York. Copyright © John
Thorn.
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In the years before the Revolution made it
America’s patriotic anthem, “Yankee Doodle”
was a song of derision that the British
heaped upon ignorant colonists hoping to
attain foppish stature by aping English gentlemen.
The first verse and refrain, as generally
sung by children today, run thus:
Yankee Doodle went to town,
A-riding on a pony.
He stuck a feather in his hat
And called it macaroni.
Yankee Doodle, keep it up,
Yankee Doodle dandy.
Yankee Doodle round the world,
As sweet as sugar candy.
This seems a mild enough if not fully fathomable
jest—hardly a slander. How then to
account for the eponymous hero’s enduring
power as a figure of fun? What precisely was
a Yankee, or a Doodle, or most intriguingly, a
macaroni?
Some savants trace the history of “Yankee
Doodle” back to a harvesting song of
fifteenth-century Holland, “Yanker dudel
doodle down,” sung by laborers who were paid
with a tenth of the grain and all the buttermilk
they could drink. Others find echoes of the
melody in the equally old English rhyme “Lucy
Locket” (“Lucy Locket lost her pocket, / Kitty
Fisher found it; / Nothing in it, nothing in it,
/ But the binding round it”). In the days of
Oliver Cromwell, one of the nicknames that
the Cavaliers bestowed upon the Puritans was
“Nankee Doodle.” An Albany-area tradition
attributes a 1758 incarnation of “Yankee
Doodle” to Dr. Richard Shuckburgh, a British
army surgeon, wit, and musician who is said
to have written it at Fort Crailo to mock the
ragtag New England militia serving alongside
the redcoats.
No matter; the essence is that it is a song of
insult. The Yankee—as Captain Yankey (the
Dutch pirate), or Jan Kees (the Dutch for John
Cheese), or Cooper’s Algonquian Yengeese, or
Irving’s fanciful yanokies—was a strong, silent
sharpster who was after your money. A doodle
was simply a fool, and so we may fairly term
Yankee Doodle a sophomore, a wise fool.
Although earlier clues abound, we need
look back no farther than 1775, when after the
battle of Bunker Hill, the Continental army,
under General Washington’s command, was
encamped in the vicinity of Boston. The Tories
were then singing to the old tune of “Lucy
Locket” these lines:
Yankee Doodle came to town
For to buy a firelock;
We will tar and feather him,
And so we will John Hancock.
Thomas Ditson, of Billerica, Massachusetts,
was the one actually tarred and feathered for
attempting to buy a musket in Boston in March
1775. The Battle of Bunker Hill in June turned
the tables, however, as “Yankee Doodle” came
to be sung by the patriots. The complete Americanization
of the song ensued as Harvard
student Edward Bangs penned the following
during George Washington’s presence at the
provincial camp in Cambridge in 1775:
Father and I went down to camp,
Along with Captain Gooding,
And there we seed the men and boys
As thick as hasty pudding.
Yankee Doodle, keep it up,
Yankee Doodle Dandy;
Mind the music and the step,
And with the girls be handy.
Following General Burgoyne’s surrender
of British troops to the Continental Army
on October 17, 1777, British officer Thomas
Anburey wrote:
The name [of Yankee] has been more
prevalent since the commencement of
hostilities....The soldiers at Boston used
it as a term of reproach, but after the affair
at Bunker’s Hill, the Americans gloried in
it. “Yankee Doodle” is now their paean, a
favorite of favorites, played in their army,
esteemed as warlike as the “Grenadier’s
March”—it is the lover’s spell, the nurse’s
lullaby...it was not a little mortifying to
hear them play this tune, when their army
marched down to our surrender.
Although musicologists have not found an
eighteenth-century version of “Yankee Doodle”
with the immortal line “He stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni,” that jibe may well have originated about the time of the Macaroni
Club, established in London in the 1760s by men
of polymorphous sexuality. By 1772 the macaroni
was a national infatuation, even spawning
the Macaroni and Theatrical Magazine. According
to contemporary Thomas Wright:
The macaronis were distinguished especially
by an immense knot of artificial hair
behind, by a very small cock-hat, by an
enormous walking-stick, with long tassels,
and by jacket, waistcoat, and breeches of
very close cut....Macaronis were the
most attractive objects in the ball, or at the
theatre. Macaronis abounded everywhere.
Named for the vermicelli-based pasta enjoyed
by cultivated young Englishmen of the 1760s
on their tours of Italy—thought by the English
to be a particular den of perversion, even
more so than France or Spain—the macaroni
embodied the consumption of continental
fare in intellectual and moral spheres, as well.
Old-fashioned Englishmen came to identify
macaroni culture with all that was outlandish
and effeminate.
Between yesterday’s macaroni and today’s
metrosexual there may not be much to choose.
In a 1994 article in the Independent titled “Here
Come the Mirror Men,” Mark Simpson coined
the term.
Metrosexual man: the single young man
with a high disposable income, living or
working in the city (because that’s where
all the best shops are), is perhaps the
most promising consumer market of the
decade. In the Eighties he was only to
be found inside fashion magazines such
as GQ, in television advertisements for
Levis jeans or in gay bars. In the Nineties,
he’s everywhere and he’s going shopping.
Yankee Doodle Dandy indeed.
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John Thorns Play column was published in Voices Vol. 35, Spring-Summer 2009. Voices is the membership magazine of the New York Folklore Society. To become a subscriber, join the New York Folklore Society now.
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